Tag Archives: T3 roadtrip

Dorilocos in Guanajuato

20-23 February 2020

Our stop in Guanajuato will be memorable for a few very different reasons. In no particular order, here they are:

  • the terrifying, gut wrenching steep drive up to the campsite;
  • the discovery of Dorilocos – probably the best ever junk food snack;
  • meeting with two fellow ‘shipped van to Veracruz and got robbed’ victims;
  • and, of course, the beauty of the city itself.

Here’s the campsite.

It is called Morill RV Park and is in a great location overlooking the town. The reviews about it on iOverlander really don’t get across just how steep the hill climb to get to it really is. It was scary stuff and I still don’t know how Molly made it up there or how Stuart kept on driving. I kept my eyes shut.

The view was worth it though.

Our fellow campers were a lovely couple from Brazil (@Tavapelomundo on Instagram) and ….

… Hans and Sigrid from Germany.

Chatting to them, we discovered we had something unfortunate in common. Both our campervans had been cleaned out by thieves on the crossing from Veracruz. While we shipped with the Orion Highway from Southampton, they shipped their van on the Hoegh Yokohama. There are other differences between us – they were assured (and very luckily insured) that their personal possessions in the van would be safe, but advised to keep everything in cupboards, out of sight. On that basis, they didn’t actually lock everything away, thinking that padlocks would have the reverse effect of attracting thieves. It didn’t work. The thieves who had clearly plenty of time picked through everything accessible from the main door (via the key handed to the shipping line) and took everything of value and some things of little value e.g. their usb sticks with carefully chosen music playlists.

In our case (and do forgive us for going old ground), we had taken the additional step of padlocking stuff away but that proved no deterrent. They just smashed the locks. Talking to Hans and Sigrid brought back all the bad memories yet it was good too to share what happened. Nice to feel we are not alone.  And so based on our shared experiences, do we have any advice for anyone considering shipping their van to Veracruz? Go via container if you can – our T25 is too high for one so ro ro is our only option. Otherwise, we suggest you pick up every item you pack on board your van before you ship it and say your farewells. Unfortunately, it may be the last time you see it.

Discovering Dorilocos

How have we lived this long and not discovered dorilocos before? Maybe it was because we happened upon this stall not long after we had arrived into Guanajuato when we were feeling tired, hungry and ready for a cold beer.

We headed down the hill from the campsite and came to this brightly lit stall selling an intriguing snack which started by slashing open the side of a packet of Doritos, then piling whatever you wanted on top – like homemade salsa with finely chopped tomatoes, onions, coriander, chili and lime, handfuls of peanuts, cucumber, grated carrot, more crisps and other stuff we couldn’t identify. Then your overflowing bag is topped off with chili sauce and lime. Practically drooling now just thinking of it.

Exploring Guanajuato

Here’s Guanajuato looking like the really hard jigsaw puzzle you never get round to doing.

We saw this view from above when we went up the funicular railway and from below when we went through the tunnels built to divert the Guanajuato river.

We went to the regional museum in the old granary….

… but didn’t do the kissing thing in the Callejón del Beso. That involves leaning out of the window on one side of the street and kissing someone leaning out of a window on the opposite side.

We stayed in the audience. Clearly no romance in our souls.

And that was the end of our Guanajuato stay. We pulled out of the campsite and down the steep slope which somehow looks very tame in this photo.

Next stop Guadalajara, more van trouble and a taste of Tequila.

To Las Pozas And San Miguel De Allende

14 – 20 February 2020

Mariachi band in San Miguel de Allende

We mentioned in a previous post that there were three ‘musts’ we wanted to see in our travels around Mexico.

We’d seen the Monarch butterflies in their winter migration home.  Now we were headed to the second ‘must see’. That was the surrealist sculpture garden of Las Pozas created in the Mexican jungle by the wealthy and eccentric Englishman Edward James, patron of artists Magritte and Dali.

We said farewell to Suzanne and John of Tigger’s Travels and left Morelia to head north to the mountain village of Xilitla, home of James’ concrete Garden of Eden.

On the way, we stopped overnight in the little village of Bernal. Here is its most famous sight.

Pena de Bernal

…the Pena de Bernal, at just over 1,400 feet high, it is one of the tallest monoliths in the world.  We walked up the hill for a closer look but were too late to get onto the hiking trail leading to the top. We headed back into the town along with a few disappointed couples who were clearly aiming for a romantic insta snap on the rock to post on St Valentine’s Day.

We stayed the night in a car park and set off early next morning for Xilitla.

The drive up into the Sierra Gorda mountains was hard going – long slow steep climbs….

…and tight  switchbacks.  

Molly in the car park at Posada El Castillo

As a treat and to enjoy the full Edward James’ experience, we booked in for two nights in to stay at the eight-bedroom Posado el Castillo, once the family home of Plutarco Gastelum, James’  longterm friend and collaborator in creating Las Posas.

We met Plutarco’s granddaughter

..and stayed in the bedroom used by Uncle James when he was in Mexico.  

It has a Magritte painting of Edward James. A print that is. Of the back of James’ head.

Edward James

 Las Pozas is a weird and wonderful place and judging by the crowds there, a popular tourist attraction.

Back into the town for the afternoon, we watched dancing in the square…

He was the greatest dancer

…went shopping in the local market.

And visited the museum of Leonara Carrington.

Then it was once more back on the road. Our fellow guest at El Castillo recommended the hot springs of Rio Verde as a good place to stop and break our journey.  We had a swim….

and the  friendly security guard said we could stay overnight in the car park so long as we had left next morning by 7 am.

Parked for the night – Rio Verde

San Miguel de Allende

Mention you are travelling to Mexico and everyone – especially anyone from North America – will mention  our next stop – San Miguel de Allende. Throw a stone there and chances are you’ll hit a gringo.

The place is heaving with us! One in 10 – to be more precise- are from the USA or Canada because the little town is a hugely popular retirement destination.

And all are fiercely active retirees judging from what we could see on our  wander round.

If they weren’t whacking balls across the net beside our van (the campsite came with hot showers and tennis courts) they were huddled in a corner discussing rhyming couplets whilst dressed in yoga gear. A Shakespeare tutorial with stretching? The local estate agent is a branch of Sotheby’s and the shops reflect the affluent clientele. 

There’s no doubt San Miguel de Allende is a beautiful place with its colourful Spanish colonial houses and cobbled streets, the Parroquia church glowing pink in the sunset- but we were happy to move on after one night.

We were headed to Guanjuato, another place we’d heard a lot about. But first, a quick stop in the small town of Dolores Hidalgo. It is the place to go if you are looking for handcrafted talavera ceramic tiles. Or in our case, just looking at the tiles. So much choice, so little room.